In Greece, food is more than just a matter of sustenance. It’s an essential part of the way of life, deeply woven into the country’s rich cultural fabric and winding all the way back to its ancient history. From the bustling markets of Athens to traditional seafood restaurants on the islands, food plays a crucial role in bringing people together and preserving age-old customs.
At the heart of Greek dining culture is the taverna. These age-old institutions, many of which seem untouched by time, are important community gathering points. Often family-run, they generally offer an unfussy menu of classic dishes (think moussaka, tzatziki and stuffed vine leaves), served on a chequered tablecloth and washed down with a glass of local wine. Since the early 1800s Kafenion, traditional Greek cafes, have also formed an important part of the country’s social life. Here, you’ll spot locals whiling away the hours sipping ouzo or drinking steaming cups of thick Greek coffee, which is brewed using a traditional copper pot called a briki.
With its myriad of flavours and emphasis on fresh, locally-sourced ingredients, Greek cuisine embodies the country’s values of hospitality, community, and reverence for nature. It’s widely known as one of the healthiest culinary cultures in the world and an important part of this is the abundant use of antioxidant-rich olive oil. Producing some of the country’s finest is Corfu’s Dr Kavvadia, a business today run by the grandson of the eponymous founder who began making oil in the 1950s. He was among the first producers to bottle two local and rare varieties, Lianelia and Thiako, and the farm today offers tours and tastings where visitors can learn more about the ancient processes of olive oil production.
Recent years have seen a wave of homegrown chefs and restaurateurs putting a fresh spin on traditional Greek cuisine. The Cycladic island of Sifnos has made a name for itself as a culinary destination, with a new crop of bars and restaurants focussed on updating the indigenous dining culture. Among the most notable are Cantina, chef Giorgos Samoilis’ small, seafront restaurant serving an array of refined dishes made using solely local produce, and Loggia, a hilltop wine bar specialising in Greek natural wines.
On nearby Antiparos, there’s also been a recent spate of glamorous new culinary ventures opening their doors. At The Rooster, produce picked daily from the restaurant’s own farm is used to create a refined menu of updated Mediterranean cuisine that’s served to diners on an olive tree-shaded terrace. There’s also Bardót, a bar-cum-restaurant that’s become known for its stylish interiors and imaginative cocktail menu.
An emphasis on drinking and festivities in Greek culture stretches all the way back to ancient times and the worship of Dionysus, the god of wine and merriment. Vines have been cultivated across the country for millennia, with native grape varieties including Assyrtiko, Savvatiano and Xinomavro. The rich volcanic soils of Santorini mean it has long been a centre for winemaking, and its craggy terrain is still dotted with plenty of scenic vineyards. The island’s largest private winery is Estate Argyros, which sits high on a cliff-top plateau with wide expanses of neatly trained vines stretching out towards the sea. Its state-of-the-art premises are open year-round for tastings and tours.
There’s also been a recent explosion in Greece’s natural wine scene. Producers have been cropping up across the country as well as bars and restaurants serving these low-intervention bottles. The first natural wine bar-cum-shop to open in Greece was Éla on the Dodecanese island of Patmos, with a cellar featuring natural wines from small, independent producers across Europe and Georgia. The business, which is located in a lush glade in the north of the island, today also encompasses an acclaimed restaurant with an open kitchen where meat and produce from the surrounding garden is prepared over open flames.
